Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Pussyhat-inspired Headband
by Sage's Handmade
Need a quick hot-weather alternative to a #pussyhat? Here's a kitty-eared headband that's 100% customizable – just add more rounds for bigger ears, omit rounds for smaller ones.

Please read through the whole pattern before you begin.

  • 2 colors of yarn (the second color is to make a contrasting border)
  • a plastic or solid-core headband you can wear comfortably for several hours
  • a crochet hook (see section on Gauge below)
  • stitch marker
  • yarn needle
  • optional florist's wire
  • optional sewing needle and thread

mr = magic ring
sc = single crochet
inc = single crochet increase

This pattern is written for worsted-weight yarn, but ANY yarn will work – just add or omit rounds as needed. The yarns used here are Red Heart Soft Metallic in "Fuchsia" & Red Heart Super Saver in "Black".

Using a D (3.25mm) hook: 5 sts x 5 rounds = 1 inch.

For ears that stand on their own without internal support, tight gauge and acrylic yarn are best. (Small hook + tight gauge = nice, stiff ears.) If you crochet with a looser gauge or use a natural fiber yarn, you'll want to create an internal wire frame to hold your ears up.

USING WIRE (optional)
Create the frame by bending a long vee of florist's wire into the inside of each ear & wrapping the ends securely around the headband. This will keep the ears permanently upright, no matter how loose your stitches.

If you have fine, straight hair, you may find that these ears look huge on you. If so, just take out the last couple of rounds before the border. If you have super-thick, curly hair, you may find these ears seem a skoosh too small. If so, add a round or two, keeping in mind that the border will add some height.

EAR (make 2)
1. sc 4 in mr = 4
2. *inc, sc* x 2 = 6
3. *inc, sc 2* x 2 = 8
4. *inc, sc 3* x 2 = 10
5. *inc, sc 4* x 2 = 12
6. *inc, sc 5* x 2 = 14
7. work even = 14
8. *inc, sc 6* x 2 = 16
9. *inc, sc 7* x 2 = 18
10. *inc, sc 8* x 2 = 20
11. *inc, sc 9* x 2 = 22
12. *inc, sc 10* x 2 = 24
13. *inc, sc 11* x 2 = 26
14. *inc, sc 12* x 2 = 28
15. *inc, sc 13* x 2 = 30

Don't finish off. If you're going to make a wire frame, do that now. If your headband has teeth, be sure to try on the headband to finalize the ear placement before completing R16 below.

Attaching the ears to a THIN headband:
16. ch 2, sc 13 through both layers of the ear, and finish off. If you're worried the ears may slip off, use a needle and thread to sew the ears to the headband.

17. attach a new yarn in a contrasting color to a bottom corner of the ear and sc along the top edges of the ear: sc 14, sc 3 into the point, sc 14 = 31
18. Optional: ch1 and turn, sc 31 = 31
Finish off, weaving in the ends.

Don't worry about the triangular base of the ear not matching the curve of the headband. Once the headband is on your head, the ear will conform to the curve.

Attaching ears to a WIDE headband:
  • In lieu of R16: ch 1 and turn, sc 15 through both layers, thus crocheting the bottom of the ear closed.
  • Add the border in R17.
  • Cut the yarn, leaving a very long tail, and use a yarn needle to stitch from the front of the ear, around the bottom of the headband, into the back of the ear, back around the bottom of the headband to the front of the ear, and so on, until you've sewn the ear to the headband.


This pattern is copyright Sage's Handmade 2017. The pattern is free and shareable; do not sell the pattern or claim it as your own. If you sell items made from it, please credit Sage's Handmade as the designer and link back to me at Ravelry, Instagram, Tumblr, or Blogspot. Contact me at

Wednesday, February 8, 2017

General Leia Organa doll pattern!

I'm so excited about my General Leia Organa doll pattern!

She stands 8 inches tall (20.5cm) when made with a D hook.

Skill level: intermediate. This means comfort with sc, hdc, dc, increasing and decreasing, and working in the front or back loops. The thumbs are easy 2-dc bobbles, which you can google if you need to.

The ten-page pattern includes numerous large photos and detailed instructions.

A list of yarns used in the prototypes is included, but any worsted weight yarn will work.

Go here to purchase the pattern. And please let me know if you make her. I'd love to see your pics. ❤

Friday, March 6, 2015

Spock doll!

Spock doll pattern by Sage

Created in fond memory of Leonard Nimoy, honorary grandfather to so many of us, on 2/27/2015.

**PLEASE NOTE: THIS PATTERN IS AS-YET UNTESTED! (Because freehanding, srsly.) If you find errors, let me know and I'll gladly edit in any corrections.**

Finished height: 7 inches tall when made with a D (3.25mm) hook and worsted weight yarn. The doll will come out bigger if made with a larger hook.

This doll is crocheted from the feet up, with the arms and wig cap created separately. Except for the slst rounds, gauge should be relatively tight so the stuffing doesn't show through. All rounds are continuous spirals, so use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Free tutorials for every stitch and technique used can be found online.

Stitches and Techniques Used (All terms US)
MR = magic ring
ch = chain
slst = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
tr = treble crochet
inc = invisible single crochet increase
dec = invisible single crochet decrease
hdc-inc = 2 half-double crochets in the same stitch
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together
BLO = back loop only
FLO = front loop only
Short rows = stop working in rounds and switch to rows (with a ch1 and turn)

Materials Needed
Worsted (medium) weight yarn in:
- black for the boots, pants, collar, and hair*
- light blue for the shirt
- skin-tone of your choice for the face and hands
Embroidery floss or crochet thread in:
- gold for the rank and Starfleet insignia
- black for the facial detailing
Stitch marker
Polyester filling
Optional 6mm safety eyes, felt, and/or floss for the eyes.
Size D (3.25mm) crochet hook
Yarn needle
Embroidery needle

* you may wish to use a high gloss yarn or floss for the hair instead.


Notes: the side with the group of double crochets is the front of the boot. Stuff feet lightly but stuff the legs very firmly.

Left Leg
1. (with black) sc 6 in MR = 6
2. *inc* = 12
3. *inc, sc* = 18
4. BLO: *dec, sc* x4; *dc2tog, dc* x2 = 12
5-11. work even = 12
Finish off, tucking tail inside.

Right Leg
1. sc 6 in MR = 6
2. *inc* = 12
3. *inc, sc* = 18
4. BLO: *dec, sc* x4; *dc2tog, dc* x2 = 12
5-11. work even = 12
Finish off, tucking tail inside.

Hips, Torso, Neck, and Head
Note: Stuff firmly as you go, especially the neck.

1. Align the legs so the feet are facing front and attach yarn at top of inner right thigh if you are right handed, left if you're left-handed, about 2 stitches back from the front.
2. sc2 to matching stitches on left leg, moving toward the rear.
(Note: This should create a gusset exactly centered between the two legs. The next round will work around the perimeter of both legs, beginning the hips. If you're right handed, you'll begin working around the left leg, to the center front, and around the right leg to finish the round at the center back. Lefties go around the other way.)
3. inc, sc, inc, sc8, inc, inc, sc8, inc, sc, inc = 30
4. work even = 30
5. sc6, dec, sc6, dec, sc6, dec, sc6 = 27
6. (change to blue) BLO slst 27 + 1 (to overlap so there isn't a hole) = 28
7. BLO: sc27 = 27
8-12 work even = 27
13. *dec, sc2* x6; dec, sc = 20
14. *dec, sc* x6; dec = 13
15. (change to black) BLO slst 13 + 1 (to overlap so there isn't a hole) = 14
16. (change to skin) BLO slst 13 + 1 (to overlap so there isn't a hole) = 14
17. *dec, sc2* x3; sc = 10
18. *inc* x5; hdc-inc; *inc x4* = 20
(Note: the hdc-inc should be located at center chin.)
19. *inc, sc2* = 25
20. *inc, sc3* x6; sc = 31
21-22. work even = 31
23. sc15; *dec, sc2* x4 = 27
24. *dec, sc* = 18
25. work even = 18
(If using safety eyes, insert them at R21~ or as desired.)
26. *dec, sc* = 12
27. *dec* = 6
Finish off, hiding tail inside.

The angle of the stitches will create a longer and shorter side of the hand. You want the longer side to be the outside of the hand. When you get to the final short rows that form the shoulder, make sure the hand is facing the right way and the color change jog is located at the side of the wrist. Stuff hand and forearm as you go.

Left Arm
1. (with skin-colored yarn) sc4 in MR = 4
2. *inc* = 8
3-4. work even = 8
5. (with blue) BLO: slst 8 + 1 (to overlap so there isn't a hole) = 9
6-9. sc8 = 8
10. inc, sc7 = 9
11-12. work even = 9
13. ch1 and turn. BLO: sc4 = 4
14. ch1 and turn, FLO: sc, dec, sc = 3
Finish off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing on. Do not stuff upper arm.

Right Arm
1. (with skin-colored yarn) sc4 in MR = 4
2. *inc* = 8
3-4. work even = 8
5. (with blue) BLO: slst 8 + 1 (to overlap so there isn't a hole) = 9
6-9. sc8 = 8
10. inc, sc7 = 9
11-12. work even = 9
13. ch1 and turn. FLO: sc4 = 4
14. ch1 and turn, BLO: sc, dec, sc = 3
Finish off, leaving a 12 inch tail for sewing on. Do not stuff upper arm.

Wig Cap
Note: I used Caron Simply Soft for the hair, which is fairly thin by worsted standards. If the pattern as written gives your Spock too much or too little hair, adjust your rounds/rows as needed.

1. (with hair-colored yarn) sc6 in MR = 6
2. *inc* = 12
3. *inc, sc* = 18
4. *inc, sc2* = 24
5. *inc, sc3* = 30
6. work even = 30
7-8. sc15, ch1 and turn = 15
9. *dec, sc3* x3 = 12
10. *dec, sc4* x2 = 10
11. sc4, dec, sc4 = 9
12. dec, sc5, dec = 7
Finish off and leave a 3ft tail for sewing on and embroidering sideburns into place. Do not attach the wig cap yet.

Ears (make 2)
1. (with skin-colored yarn) sc4 in MR = 3
2. ch1 and turn, tr, ch2, sc, slst, slst = 6
Finish off, leaving a 12+ inch tail for sewing on. (You'll need to flip one ear inside out, so the shell is facing the right way for its side of the head. When attaching, make sure to stitch the point of the ear firmly in place so it doesn't flop into a curve. Reference photos may be useful here.)

Finishing Details

Rank and Starfleet Insignia: Spock has two gold lieutenant commander's stripes on each sleeve cuff. (In the original series it was literally gold lame rickrack, so embroidering tiny zigzags would fitting, if super-tedious; plain stripes also work.) The Starfleet insignia is an uneven arrowhead pointing up, with the left leg about 2/3 wider than the right.

Face: Pin the hair and ears in place using the flat plane of the body and the rounds of the head as reference points. Stitch the hair evenly along the hairline, then attach the ears, weaving in the ends and hiding the tails inside the head. Then embroider eyes, eyebrows, nose, and mouth.

Positioning: Spock should be able to stand on his own. If yours keeps falling over, use a hook or yarn needle to tug some of the stuffing up out of the feet and into the legs. Then pinch each foot in half across the diameter of the foot – as if folding a fortune cookie. This forces the stuffing up and away and flattens the sole.

Weave in or hide any remaining ends, and you're done! Congratulations on finishing your new Spock doll!

Copyright info:
This pattern is a free fanwork made in memory of Leonard Nimoy. Feel free to link to it and credit me (Sage) as the designer. Do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own. You can find me on ravelry here.

If you make a doll using this pattern, I'd love to see it! Feel free to post pics of your work in the comments!